Mathura, Gokul and Brindaban

MATHURA is the birthplace of that great incarnation – Sri Krishna. Sri Krishna is the veritable personification of Love itself. His imperishable name lives still green and in all its pristine glory in the minds of all people in India. The Bhagavad Gita stands unrivalled in the depth of its philosophy pointing out the one Goal which all human endeavour should aim at, as the ultimate accomplishment of all life and existence. Mathura still remembers vividly the child Krishna and his charmed life, which is proved by the variety of Mandirs in the place in which he is worshipped daily in the form of gaudily dressed idols. On the day of Ramdas’ arrival at Mathura – Ramkinker being laid up with fever – Ramdas, before he came in touch with the new Sadhuram, went to the city in quest of the holy river Jamuna. Ram, who was ever ready to offer help to him, now brought him in touch with a Brahmin going towards the river. He came of his own accord towards him and proposed to lead him to the river.

Having reached the holy Jamuna, Ramdas first washed his clothes and then descended into the river for a bath. But before doing so, he placed his small Lota on one of the stone steps into which he also put his spectacles. Finishing bath he was returning to the spot where he had placed the Lota, and he was only a moment too late, because a monkey coming up carried off the spectacles. Now without spectacles he could not clearly see objects at a distance. The Brahmin guide, seeing this, was annoyed. But Ramdas, unperturbed, said:

“It was all Ram’s wish,” and thought within himself that perhaps Ram meant to restore his failing sight.

But the Brahmin would not rest content. He requested two boys standing nearby to run after the monkey for the pair of spectacles. The monkey, meanwhile, was jumping from one turret of the temple to the other closely followed by a number of other monkeys who thought the first one had got some eatable in its grasp. However, in about a quarter of an hour, the boys returned bringing with them the pair of spectacles in a sound condition. It was after all a test of Ram on his humble slave. After visiting some temples of Sri Krishna by the kindness of this Brahmin guide, he proceeded next day to Govardhan, in the company of the new Sadhuram.

Govardhan was situated at a distance of 14 miles from Mathura. They reached this place at midday. Here was the famous hill of Govardhan which is said to have been lifted up by Sri Krishna and supported on the tip of his little finger to protect the cows and cowherds – his playmates – from the heavy torrents of rain sent down by the angry god Indra. But this hill is fast diminishing and has come down almost to the level of the surrounding land. The stones cut out from the hill have been for the most part used in the erection of houses at the place. However to represent the hill, a piece of rock from it is preserved, enclosed by an iron fence and with a top roof. Upon this rock pilgrims pour Ghee, milk, curds, etc. and offer Puja. Even from this rock, bits are knocked off by the pilgrims and carried as mementos. After securing food at a Dharmashala, Ramdas and the Sadhuram rested for a while in the afternoon.

In the evening, both the Sadhuram and he were out on the road going about the town when they heard from a distance the sound of Bhajan. Thither Ram led him and the Sadhuram. Shortly after this, they found themselves in a small Ram Mandir, and in front of the images about half a dozen Saints were sitting and singing to the accompaniment of cymbals, Tambourine and Mridang, the glorious name of Ram. The words were “Hare Ram, Hare Ram, Ram Ram, Hare Hare! Hare Krishna, Hare Krishna, Krishna Krishna, Hare Hare!”

This Bhajan was sung repeatedly in a variety of tunes producing in the atmosphere an electric influence full of peace. In this place he remained for nearly four hours fully absorbed in the charming sound of Ram’s name. Next day, he and his guide started back for Mathura and after a short stay there, Ramdas, who missed the Sadhuram, proceeded alone to Gokul lying at a distance of about 5 miles. Ah! Gokul is the place where Sri Krishna grew up as a child, played his games and exhibited his extraordinary powers! Here also the blessed Jamuna flows. It was here in this river, perhaps, that Sri Krishna rode and danced on the hood of the venomous serpent Kaliya. After a day’s stay here, he returned to Mathura, whence he proceeded to Brindaban about six miles off.

Brindaban is a very delightful place. Here the same Jamuna flows in all her tameness and purity. There are beautiful natural gardens of Neem and other trees on the banks of the river. To sit under their cool shade, when the fresh breeze is blowing over the place from the bosom of mother Jamuna, is to enjoy heaven itself. He was charmed with the place and stayed on the banks of the river for a fortnight, made the dry sand his bed and seat for the night, and the shade of the trees a little above, his resting place for the day. Moonlit nights here were all-bewitching. The very air seemed to be charged with the presence of that Love incarnate Sri Krishna – and when soft breezes were blowing they seemed to be carrying into Ramdas’ ears the maddening music of Sri Krishna’s flute, and the silvery sound of the tinkling tiny bells of his blessed dancing feet. Now and again, a deep, soft and resonant voice would travel in the air – “Radheshyam, Radheshyam.” Ramdas lived there in a state of complete ecstasy and rapture. Days passed by unconsciously. The whole stay seemed to be one long-drawn, sweet and pleasant dream.

At Brindaban, he visited many Krishna-Mandirs of which the Ranganath-Mandir is a huge and picturesque structure. It resembles a fortress enclosed by high massive walls. The gateway and interior building and roofs are all made of stone artistically carved. The command came at last from Ram to quit. Returning to Mathura, he got into a train directed by the friends of the place.